Meru

Directors: Jimmy Chin and Elizabeth Chai Vasarhelyi

The central peak on Meru mountain in India has been a mountaineer's bane and was formerly deemed unscalable, which prompted three American mountain-climbers: Conrad Anker, Jimmy Chin and Renan Ozturk to make a repeat attempt on the summit in 2011 after having already failed in their initial effort. Though Meru's size is hardly formidable by mountaineering standards (21,850 ft), its unique geological feature, nicknamed the Shark's Fin, poses a daunting challenge to even the most seasoned mountain-climbers. Many of the best had tried and failed to negotiate its massive granite face but in spite of its frightening obstacles, Anker, Chin and Ozturk forged ahead with their own attempt. Their endeavor is the focus of Jimmy Chin and Elizabeth Chai Vasarhelyi's superb documentary Meru, which opens nation-wide in September.

What distinguishes Meru from other compelling films on mountaineering is its first-person photographic and cinematographic documentation. Chin and Ozturk, accomplished adventure photographers and cinematographers, used their considerable experience to capture footage of their historic ascent. Their breathtaking camera work helps tell an equally breathtaking story. Meru is something special; a thrilling film that offers more than death-defying thrills, it also tells the stories of the climbers themselves, who overcame mind-boggling adversity to make their mark in mountaineering lore.

A standard narrative device in mountaineering films is to introduce the unclimbable mountain. In the opening scenes, we see footage of the three climbers in their tent, hanging from 20,000ft. Waiting out a storm, their faces express exhaustion. Another narrative device is to back-track; to show how the mountaineers arrived at this place and in this predicament.

As the story retraces the steps, we learn about the origins of the first attempt but we also get biographical background on the subjects. We get to know Conrad Anker, who is regarded as one of the world's best mountaineers. We also learn about his mentoring of Jimmy Chin. Chin discusses his early years and his parent's disappointment in his chosen passion, which also serves as his vocation. Also part of biographical background are Chin and Ozturk's photographic assignments, which sometimes involve extreme skiing and following world class snowboarders in harrowing descents.

As we watch the mountaineers pursue their prize, we discover their lives-before the ascent are often as fascinating as their alpine exploits. Anker's story alone could be a feature film. His climbing under the mentorship of legendary mountaineer Mugs Stump plays a significant role in his formative training while his friendship with his friend and climbing partner Alex Lowe was no less vital to his career. Both Stump and Lowe met unfortunate ends on mountains, which Anker recounts in tearful detail. An unforeseen development in his life was falling in love with Lowe's widow, who he subsequently married before adopting her (and Alex's) children. Mentioned in the film but not explored is how Anker achieved international fame for discovering the body of George Mallory; the famed British mountaineer whose disappearance on an Everest climb in 1924 became a mystery.

Chin also achieved a degree of fame for his miraculous survival of an avalanche, which he discusses in harrowing detail. No less miraculous is Ozturk's recovery from an accident while on assignment covering Chin and two snowboarder's adventures on the slopes. The accident which left Ozturk with a cracked skull, broken vertebrae and dangerously reduced blood-flow in his brain not only jeopardized his life, but his ability to walk. The near-tragedy became a source of guilt for Chin, who claims responsibility for Ozturk's mishap. Ozturk's furious determination to return to mountaineering and an attempt on Meru is only one more unbelievable story in a film saturated with such stories.

Interspersed among phenomenal climbing footage are talking head interviews with the climbers and their families. Commentary and insights from famed mountaineering author Jon Krakauer contributes excitement and color to the proceedings.

Captured in heartbreaking footage is the first attempt on the Shark's Fin. A dangerous shortage of food and extended, unforeseen exposure to the elements denied the trio the summit. We see the video of the summit, agonizingly in reach, and feel the climber's crushing disappointment in having to abandon their climb.

Thinking the attempt a one-time effort, Anker learns of another climber's failed designs on Meru, which leaves him determined to try again. A severe wrinkle in the expedition is Ozturk's injury. He is warned that the diminished blood flow in his brain could result in a stroke at high altitudes. Undeterred, we see his herculean determination to join Anker and Chin on the second attempt.

The second attempt, like the first, is well-documented on film. Every minor setback, like an episode of Ozturk's worrisome, stroke-like incoherence, is captured in sight and sound. A storm that held up the group for four days on the first attempt, which dangerously reduced their rations, is mercifully absent on their second attempt. What transpires next is for film-goers to discover for themselves.

In a year of terrific documentaries, Meru claims distinction as an elite entry. It is never less than riveting and the bonds of faith and trust that form between men in a death-courting pursuit is thoroughly explored and touchingly conveyed. Though Chin's wife and co-director, Elizabeth Chai Vasherhelyi, helped mold the footage and interviews into a powerful documentary, it is Chin and Ozturk's superlative camera work on the mountain that merits a share of the praise. The panoramic vistas of the mountain range and the stunning beauty of the imposing Shark's Fin from aerial shots and the foot of the mountain reflect an artist's eye--a skill uncommon among mountain climbers.

The technical details of the climb are made fascinating to the lay person. To hear Chin and Anker discuss the dangers in climbing the granite face; of large chunks of rock separating from the wall, is enough to give one pause. I was also fascinated to learn that a climber attempting Meru must be skilled in several sub-disciplines of climbing; rock-climbing, alpine, etc.

Of course the human element is always at the forefront of the story. Being an excellent risk-assessor and being trustworthy are attributes highly-praised by the climbers, which Chin and Anker emphasize greatly.

I think Meru is one of the year's best films. It is exciting, sometimes heartbreaking and always moving. The men at the center of the story are as amazing as any subjects you will see in film this year; documentary or narrative.

If you think you've seen enough films on mountaineering, you will be pleased to know the genre has room for one more excellent specimen. It is a film you won't forget and one you may want to experience in multiple viewings.